Hey everyone! This was the forth weekend in a row that I have driven to the Florence jetty for some good surfin'. This weekend the swells were a bit bigger. The average height on Sunday was 13 feet...the average height on monday was.....17.5 feet!
Sunday:
We got to the coast around 1:30 pm and put on immediately. Our friends from Eugene were already on the water. Pepper sat in the car and watched all the wildlife- completely confused as to her lack of participation. This surf session was a bit of a work out...the rip tide was intense. If you weren't paddling, you were going to be sucked out to sea with the real big fishes eek! just to stay in the same spot was ridiculous. The sets were pretty inconsistent but wow, when you caught the right wave, it was all worth it :)
This time around, Josh didn't get hit in the side of the face by a mister Chris and I didn't get plastered on the barnacles, but we DID see a shark. Yeah...that was not so cool. It's like everyone gets paranoid and each riffle is then caused by a shark. ha ha my guess is that it was only an eight footer but that was PLENTY big for us. It made us all nervous but we just couldnt rationalize going in and giving up the good waves...they were too good!
We finally decided to get out of the water as the sun was going down and the sets were farther and farther apart. I was worried we wouldn't be able to get back in if the waves weren't coming close enough together. It took us about twenty minutes to get far enough inside the jetty to get out. Our buddies from Eugene took a few pics for us and headed back to Eugene...they didn't want to camp out when they only have a one hour drive back home. I on the other hand decided to car camp just up the road with Pepper dog and catch the surf early the next morning......atleast, that was my plan
Monday:
I got up around 7:30 and headed back to the jetty to find the waves rolling in at a pretty regular fifteen feet but the period between sets was about two to three minutes. In that time, the riptide would be pulling you a good distance out to sea. The wind was blowing about 30-35 mph and the rain was coming down hard. Decision- take a pass on the ocean surfing. I was super bummed because the waves were, can I say this any other way, PERFECT. Barreling and breaking far enough inside the jetty. I was too concerned about the strong riptide and there were only two of us...bad set up.
I turned z car around and headed back to Eugene to visit with my sis and some friends. Todd made some fantabulous coffee for the road and then I split for home- the rain was coming down hard and there was a storm warning for the Santiam Pass...time to go!
This weekend I'm crossing my fingers for some kick ass creeking and the chance to take my brand spankin new Jefe Chico on its maiden voyage! WOO HOO! Keep on smilin' peoples!
-Christina
Paddler: Christina Russell
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